Tabuteau`s style), it seems to me that the bottom line in oboes is what works best for you! You just have to be careful. Just as "a good reed" varies from player to player (as in Goosens vs. See "A Great Oboe is a Fluke of Nature" by Alvin Swiney.(pronounced Sweeney) Īlvin was the last apprentice to the great repairman Hans Moenning (Hans did Marcel Tabuteau`s horns!!) My English Horns were a plastic Linton, an open hole Selmer and a "fluke of nature" Loree`. Each has its own peculiarities, limitations, and good qualities. All of them played and were acceptable to my skill level and needs at that time. Oboes I have owned, in chronological order: a $200.00 plastic Bundy(Selmer), a Loree`, a Laubin and a Gordet. It brought back a lot of memories, ugh, maybe too many memories. If you`re willing to spend $1000, you could get an instrument that will last at least until, if not halfway through, a college music program.
I recommend Auction Sentry, I use it myself.Īnother quick rule of thumb: As someone who has recently shopped on Ebay for an oboe and knows what she`s doing, I have NEVER seen anything but the most unworthy beginner models sell for less than $500 on Ebay.
Ebayers can also get into price wars and pay more than they need to for an instrument-getting a sniping program will combat that by bidding your maximum at the last second, before anyone has time to do anything about it. Buying from a music store that deals through Ebay helps combat that. The number one hazard on Ebay is that the instrument could be a total lemon, or worse, a counterfeit. If you`re really lucky, you`ll find an instrument in your area and you can drive out to play it before you buy, but that`s asking a lot from an Ebay purchase. If you can get the owner to give you service records (ask for store names and locations, and hope they mention reputable double reed specialists). My best advice for dealing on Ebay is to make sure you know the EXACT model number of the oboe you`re buying, and preferably a serial number. Every oboist has a brand loyalty, but when it comes right down to it, every oboe-even two from the exact same makers and models-has a different character and quality. Higher level Rigoutat, Howarth, and Fossati`s are less common but also excellent. Loree (or their student line, Cabart), Fox, or MCW Oboes-all are highly reputable. I have heard nothing but good things about these two companies from double reed shops and teachers. Yamaha oboes have a pretty good rep, especially their higher models (the intermediate YOB-410 and YOB-411 and anything above that). The exceptions to that rule are Yamaha and Buffet oboes. Selmer and Bundy are actually the same company, and excepting maybe their very very top models (the Selmer 101 and 104`s), they aren`t even remotely worth the money. Here`s the short answer: Any company that makes multiple types of instruments makes pretty bad oboes.
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